A Short Maritime History of Sitka, Alaska
The Tlingit Maritime Tradition
Tlingit fishermen (Sitka Historical Society collection)
The Indigenous people of Sitka, the Tlingit, have a rich and ancient maritime tradition. They used large red cedar canoes traded from the Haida to transport groups of a dozen or more people to gatherings and to seasonal camps.
Smaller spruce or cottonwood canoes were used for fishing, berry picking, seal hunting, and other daily uses. The canoes were hollowed from a single log, then steamed open into a final shape.
Smaller spruce or cottonwood canoes were used for fishing, berry picking, seal hunting, and other daily uses. The canoes were hollowed from a single log, then steamed open into a final shape.
18th Century European Explorers and Colonists
Mt. Edgecumbe, the dormant volcano at the entrance to Sitka Sound, was given its name by Captain James Cook when he saw the volcano on a voyage around the world in 1778. Captain Cook, who most likely named the volcano after a mountain of the same name nearly Plymouth Harbor in England, was among many explorers to enter the waters of Sitka Sound during the Age of Exploration. And, he was certainly not the first.
Among early Europeans to the area, Russian navigator Aleksei Chirikov entered Sitka Sound in 1741 and named the volcano Mt. St. Lazarus. Later, in 1775, Spanish explorer Don Juan de la Bodega y Quadra named it Mount St. Hyacinth or San Jacinto, because it was that saint’s day when he spotted it.
Among early Europeans to the area, Russian navigator Aleksei Chirikov entered Sitka Sound in 1741 and named the volcano Mt. St. Lazarus. Later, in 1775, Spanish explorer Don Juan de la Bodega y Quadra named it Mount St. Hyacinth or San Jacinto, because it was that saint’s day when he spotted it.
The Russian Era (1790s-1867)
The Russian presence in Alaska began in the Aleutian Chain in the 1740s, when Russian traders and hunters moved east from Siberia seeking sea otter pelts. Sea otter were worth a fortune in China. The Russians forced Unangan and coastal Native people to hunt sea otter for them from two-hole baidarkas.
The Russian American Company formed in 1799 with rights to colonize America on behalf of the Tsar. The first Russian fort at Old Sitka (7 miles north of present day downtown Sitka) was built in 1799, and destroyed by the Tlingit in 1802.
In 1804, Russian American Company chief Alexander Baranof returned with hundreds of Gulf of Alaska and Unangan Native hunters and met the armed Russian ship Neva at Sitka. After a battle with the Tlingit Kiksadi Clan and allies at the Indian River, the Russians established their permanent settlement, New Archangel, at what is now downtown Sitka.
As the headquarters for the Russian American Company, New Archangel was the administrative center for the Russian colonies that reached all the way to California. Sea otters had been hunted nearly to extinction by the early 19th Century, but New Archangel remained the administrative center of the Russian colonies, with boat building, with a boatyard that produced dozens of ships. It was also a stop along trade routes, where European and American boat repairs could be done. The Russian boatyard was about where Totem Square is today.
The Russian American Company formed in 1799 with rights to colonize America on behalf of the Tsar. The first Russian fort at Old Sitka (7 miles north of present day downtown Sitka) was built in 1799, and destroyed by the Tlingit in 1802.
In 1804, Russian American Company chief Alexander Baranof returned with hundreds of Gulf of Alaska and Unangan Native hunters and met the armed Russian ship Neva at Sitka. After a battle with the Tlingit Kiksadi Clan and allies at the Indian River, the Russians established their permanent settlement, New Archangel, at what is now downtown Sitka.
As the headquarters for the Russian American Company, New Archangel was the administrative center for the Russian colonies that reached all the way to California. Sea otters had been hunted nearly to extinction by the early 19th Century, but New Archangel remained the administrative center of the Russian colonies, with boat building, with a boatyard that produced dozens of ships. It was also a stop along trade routes, where European and American boat repairs could be done. The Russian boatyard was about where Totem Square is today.
The Russian steamer Politofsky was built in Sitka. (Sitka Historical Society)
After the Transfer to the U.S.
Following the 1867 transfer, U.S. Army troops were quartered in Sitka for over a decade. Then, in 1879 the Navy was given jurisdiction over the Territory of Alaska, which resulted in U.S. Revenue Service cutters and Navy gunboats being based in Sitka. These government vessels were the only law enforcement in Alaska.
Sitka struggled through its early years as an American outpost, but in the late 1800s industry picked up. As it does now, Sitka had a diversified economy, relying on tourists who came up on steamships as well as the short-lived sealing industry, among other things. When high-seas sealing was outlawed, Natives were granted an exception if they hunted in small boats, with spears. The Sitka Native boatbuilders developed the “Sitka sealer,” a 20- to 24-foot open boat.
Sitka struggled through its early years as an American outpost, but in the late 1800s industry picked up. As it does now, Sitka had a diversified economy, relying on tourists who came up on steamships as well as the short-lived sealing industry, among other things. When high-seas sealing was outlawed, Natives were granted an exception if they hunted in small boats, with spears. The Sitka Native boatbuilders developed the “Sitka sealer,” a 20- to 24-foot open boat.
Late 19th Century Tlingit sealers (Sitka Historical Society)
Boat Building in Sitka
Andrew Hope in his shop (Sitka Historical Society)
The most prolific period of boat building in Sitka occurred at the turn of the 20th Century. From 1900 to 1960 over 100 documented vessels of at least 32 feet were built in Sitka. Many salmon and longlining boats still in use today were built during this era. These boats are extremely seaworthy with deep, heavy, relatively narrow hulls.
At its peak, Sitka had eight boat shops. Peter Simpson, a graduate of Sheldon Jackson, had a boat shop at the cottages near Sitka National Historical Park as early as 1907. Other shops were on islands and Katlian Street. Most boat builders were Native men, but some were European immigrants. Aside from Simpson, highly productive boat builders of the era included Andrew Hope, Peter Kitka, and George and David Howard.
Additionally, many fishermen built their own boats, and the Sheldon Jackson school built two boats: the SJS and the Princeton Hall. After World War II, shipwright Bob Modrell taught boat building at the Bureau of Indian Affairs boarding school, where his students built a troller and a deckhouse for the shore boat Arrowhead.
Also, shortly after the War, the Sitka Marine Railways opened at what is now Allen Marine. Six boats were built there in 1945 and 1946 alone, but the main focus of the operation was on boat repair.
At its peak, Sitka had eight boat shops. Peter Simpson, a graduate of Sheldon Jackson, had a boat shop at the cottages near Sitka National Historical Park as early as 1907. Other shops were on islands and Katlian Street. Most boat builders were Native men, but some were European immigrants. Aside from Simpson, highly productive boat builders of the era included Andrew Hope, Peter Kitka, and George and David Howard.
Additionally, many fishermen built their own boats, and the Sheldon Jackson school built two boats: the SJS and the Princeton Hall. After World War II, shipwright Bob Modrell taught boat building at the Bureau of Indian Affairs boarding school, where his students built a troller and a deckhouse for the shore boat Arrowhead.
Also, shortly after the War, the Sitka Marine Railways opened at what is now Allen Marine. Six boats were built there in 1945 and 1946 alone, but the main focus of the operation was on boat repair.
The Sitka Marine Railways (Sitka Historical Society)
Sitka as a Fishing Port
The Myrth, a troller built in Sitka
As long as there have been people in the area that is now Sitka, people have depended on the rich salmon and halibut stocks. Sitka didn't become a large-scale commercial fishing port, though, until after the transfer to the United States.
SALMON
The first Salmon cannery in Alaska opened in Klawock on Prince of Wales Island in 1878. That same year one was built at Old Sitka, but it soon closed. Seining and later traps supplied the fish for canning.
Sitka didn't have another fish plant until 1913 when Booth Fisheries cold storage opened. It became Sitka Cold Storage in 1930. Today the old Sheffield Hotel stands on the site. Pyramid Packing cannery opened a few years later in 1918. It is still standing as the Murray Pacific building. Canneries in Peril Strait and at Sitkoh Bay (Chatham Cannery) also employed Sitkans.
The struggle for Native citizenship and land claims
began when people had their traditional fishing stream rights taken by canneries. Prominent leaders and the founders of the Alaska Native Brotherhood, which fought for Native rights, came from Sitka.
Early day seining was done with a big rowboat. After
1915, gas-powered boats became common. Cannery-owned traps were also used, and later became a key issue in the vote for statehood.
Commercial trolling began in Southeastern Alaska in 1905 with rowboats. By the 1920s motorized trollers were common, but most of them were still under 30. Troll caught fish in these years were “mild-cured” – lightly salted and chilled, and shipped south under refrigeration for smoking as lox.
SALMON
The first Salmon cannery in Alaska opened in Klawock on Prince of Wales Island in 1878. That same year one was built at Old Sitka, but it soon closed. Seining and later traps supplied the fish for canning.
Sitka didn't have another fish plant until 1913 when Booth Fisheries cold storage opened. It became Sitka Cold Storage in 1930. Today the old Sheffield Hotel stands on the site. Pyramid Packing cannery opened a few years later in 1918. It is still standing as the Murray Pacific building. Canneries in Peril Strait and at Sitkoh Bay (Chatham Cannery) also employed Sitkans.
The struggle for Native citizenship and land claims
began when people had their traditional fishing stream rights taken by canneries. Prominent leaders and the founders of the Alaska Native Brotherhood, which fought for Native rights, came from Sitka.
Early day seining was done with a big rowboat. After
1915, gas-powered boats became common. Cannery-owned traps were also used, and later became a key issue in the vote for statehood.
Commercial trolling began in Southeastern Alaska in 1905 with rowboats. By the 1920s motorized trollers were common, but most of them were still under 30. Troll caught fish in these years were “mild-cured” – lightly salted and chilled, and shipped south under refrigeration for smoking as lox.
HALIBUT
Originally, halibut fishermen set out in dories. They set their ground line with buoys and anchors at each end, and pulled it up with the fish.
Most early West Coast halibut schooners were from Puget
Sound, but the first in Alaska were East Coast boats, which arrived in 1888. Some of the old-style boats are still in use. They are typically 70 to 80 feet long, with a high bow, two masts, and the house aft. Among the classic halibut schooners in Sitka at Eliason Harbor are the Republic and the Pacific.
Modern Sitka longliners are sturdy boats mostly glass or steel, with a bait shelter on the stern and hydraulic power block for hauling in the longline.
Halibut fishing changed in Sitka with the introduction of the IFQ (Individual Fishing Quota) system in 1994. Entry to the fishery was limited to those who fished in 1980s, but quota could be bought and sold. IFQs were seen as a solution to the problem of crowded open access fishery and loss of gear and lives.
Originally, halibut fishermen set out in dories. They set their ground line with buoys and anchors at each end, and pulled it up with the fish.
Most early West Coast halibut schooners were from Puget
Sound, but the first in Alaska were East Coast boats, which arrived in 1888. Some of the old-style boats are still in use. They are typically 70 to 80 feet long, with a high bow, two masts, and the house aft. Among the classic halibut schooners in Sitka at Eliason Harbor are the Republic and the Pacific.
Modern Sitka longliners are sturdy boats mostly glass or steel, with a bait shelter on the stern and hydraulic power block for hauling in the longline.
Halibut fishing changed in Sitka with the introduction of the IFQ (Individual Fishing Quota) system in 1994. Entry to the fishery was limited to those who fished in 1980s, but quota could be bought and sold. IFQs were seen as a solution to the problem of crowded open access fishery and loss of gear and lives.
Early 20th Century fishing boats (Sitka Historical Society collection)
World War II in Sitka
A crew ties up a sinking PBY (Sitka Historical Society)
Sitka had the only functioning Naval Air Station in Alaska at the start of World War II, but other stations were quickly built in Kodiak and Dutch Harbor. The original purpose of the Station was to service PBY Catalina seaplanes.
During the war, the Army and Navy launched hundreds of boats in Sitka ranging from patrol boats to barges and tugs needed for construction. The Army had as many as 26 shipwrights working on boat repair in Sitka during this time. All of them were stationed at the Japonski Island Boathouse, where up to 10 shipwrights could be found working in a 40-foot by 15-foot shop. Because of the space confines of the Boathouse, a great deal of work had to be done on the grid or at a work float.
During the war, the Army and Navy launched hundreds of boats in Sitka ranging from patrol boats to barges and tugs needed for construction. The Army had as many as 26 shipwrights working on boat repair in Sitka during this time. All of them were stationed at the Japonski Island Boathouse, where up to 10 shipwrights could be found working in a 40-foot by 15-foot shop. Because of the space confines of the Boathouse, a great deal of work had to be done on the grid or at a work float.